Manor Park Restaurant, Armagh, Northern Ireland

Lunch can be a funny meal, sometimes you want hearty, or just a sandwich. Sometimes you even want style and refinement. Manor Park (www.manorparkrestaurant.co.uk) seems to have managed to encompass all of this in their lunch menu without compromising on any of them. This was the second time I've eaten here on trips across the Irish Sea to visit family. Previously I have been for dinner when this was a French themed restaurant. It has recntly been 'refurbished and rebranded' with the emphasis on local produce and I think the modern Irish menu is excellent.

Sitting alongside sandwiches of fresh bread with local ham and cheese there are sharing platters of local meats and fish. If none of these take your fancy there is a full lunch menu with favorites such as steak, cottage pie or fish and chips all with a local twist and elegantly presented.

So as we sat alongside the roaring fire sheltering inside from the cold I decided to go for the meat platter (I knew I was having fish that night but that's for another post!) which I was reliably informed was quite big but that I could probably eat myself! I paired this with a glass of house shiraz, while my wife opting for the cheese and ham sandwich on focaccia. The platter arrived beautifully presented on a slate with a jar of duck liver parfait and various rolls and little piles of meats alongside two local cheeses with fresh soused carrot rolls and onions, all topped with pea shoots served with fresh beer bread. This was an elegant sophisticated platter and would have been perfect for two sharing as a starter or light lunch. The flavours were excellent with the parfait silky and creamy and the cured duck a lovely sweet salty tang to it, alongside the Bellingham blue cheese which was stunning and really deserved a vintage port. The focaccia also came elegantly presented on a board with a side order of fries in a little bucket. In fact the only complaint I'd have was having to ask what each thing on the platter was and the waiter not being able to tell me without going to see the chef, but that's slightly picky as the service was faultless apart from this.

The platter was very filling due to the richness of so many of the components so it was decided that one dessert to share would be sufficient. And what a dessert it was. Chocolate and mulled wine tart with cranberries and orange sorbet. It was a delight of textures, flavours, aromas and temperatures. And all for a fiver! The warm tart was light with a thin sweet pastry, filled with rich but not sickly chocolate and just the right amount of mulled wine to taste the spice and a little alcohol but then the wonderful chocolate richness came through. The cranberries gave a wonderful sharpness to complement the sweetness and then another layer of sharpness came through with the sorbet. It would be easy to serve this with double cream and make it hugely heavy but with yet another flavour of Christmas from the orange it was a wonderful palate refresher as every mouthful of tart had a wonderful rich citrus flavour which was intensified with the contrasting temperatures. This was no ball of ice either, it was thick and velvety and coated your mouth with a tingle. This was quite simply beautiful and the picture really doesn't do justice. Should really have asked Santa for a new camera!!

A pair of cappuccinos finished the meal with the fire still burning before coats and scarves were adorned to head back into the chill Irish wind and the total bill came to just over £30. I'd say this was excellent value for very good food in a lovely atmosphere. Next time I go back I'm going to ask for a seat downstairs which has a cosy wine cellar/library fusion feel about it. I'll look forward to it.

Stella Bella Margaret River Pink Muscat 2010

If you could put joy in a glass this would be it. Lovely blush pink colour with a very delicate mousse gives way to a fragrant peachy and floral nose. Peachy flavours melt into Turkish delight and light muscat grapiness. Sweet with wonderful acidity and delightful long sweet but candy summer strawberry fruit finish. All this and funky name with sexy labelling. An aperitif, palate cleanser or delicate dessert wine of the highest order.

Available from Quel Vin, Great Western Road, Glasgow

George Mewes Cheese, Byres Road

Cheese is a particular weakness of mine and a visit to George Mewes (www.georgemewescheese.co.uk) on Byres Road in Glasgow for a festive cheeseboard was always going to take a while. So much so I bought enough for two festive cheeseboards but better to have too much than not enough!

The first thing that hits you is the wonderful smell, a combination of milk, muslin and must tells you that you are in a serious establishment and you need to know your way around. Except you don't, because the staff are there to guide and help novice and lifelong conniseur alike. I was immediately asked when the cheese was for and how many people and with the help of the assistant started to negotiate the varied cheese map on offer. This would take us from the west to the east coast of Scotland, down through England to Devon before heading overseas to Normandy,  the Spanish Cantabrians and beyond.

Each and every cheese was offered for tasting and gratefully accepted, these were not decisions to be taken lightly after all. So for the hard cheese I opted for Lincolnshire Poacher which was a bit stronger and more lusty than the Anster which I had spotted. As I was told this is great for anything, even the best ever cheese on toast as a treat, I couldn't disagree. As an alternative I also went for a large slice of Bonnet, the delicious hard goats milk cheese from Scotland, I couldn't go to a Glasgow cheese shop and totally ignore the native offerings after all! I decided on a delicious soft ewes milk offering called Wigmore which is wonderfully creamy and tangy and even better after an hour out of the fridge. To add to the soft cheese selection went another brie style from Devon and a Norman goats log, apologies but the names escape me as do the labels!

So now to the blue, sometimes the most difficult to choose as some don't like it too strong, too soft, too green, too salty.....too blue!!! I tried the Stilton available, and it was truly delicious but was pipped at the post by Picos from northern Spain. This is a wonderful soft(ish), creamy and tangy blue which came wrapped in chestnut leaves and was quite simply stunning, multi dimensional but not overpowering. Apparently in Spain they eat it with honey for breakfast and this is what I will be doing with it next time, although this time round I used the last of it in wild mushroom and blue cheese soup.

So that was my shopping done, I was about to escape from this cheese heaven. However, just as I was being reminded to take the cheese out of the fridge a good half hour before serving I was also asked if I wanted any oatcakes or quince paste. Quince paste?! Where is it? I was shown to a beautiful dark orangey brown slab from Spain at the end of the counter. It smelled and tasted of Christmas. Rich, sweet, beautifully spiced and quite the perfect accompaniment to any cheeseboard. So I took a big slice, thanked the assistant, paid him and ran out before I was tempted by anything further!! It would be impossible not to be.

Pot roast Pheasants with Perry

This is a lovely recipe for pheasant, with all the flavours and smells that are in season in autumn and winter. Pheasant is a wonderful meat, very low in fat and high in flavour and the sauce gives an intense warming flavour with it. Enjoy with a glass of perry or Pinot Noir.

This will serve 4 comfortably

Brace of pheasants
800ml Perry (or cider if you prefer)
12 shallots chopped
2 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
200g bacon or pancetta cut into lardons
Knob butter
Small glug olive oil
Paste of 1 tbsp flour with 1 tbsp melted butter

Season the pheasant with sea salt and fresh ground black pepper. Heat oil and butter over a medium heat in a heavy bottomed casserole dish big enough for both birds. Brown the pheasants well all over and remove. Lightly brown the bacon and soften the shallots for a couple of minutes and then add the pheasant back to the pot, breast side up, spooning some of the bacon and shallots over. Add the herbs and perry, cover and heat to a gentle simmer. Cook gently like this for 60-90 minutes until pheasants are tender.

Remove the pheasants to rest and cover with foil. Strain the remaining juices through a sieve into a saucepan and boil to reduce slightly, adding the butter and flour paste to thicken slightly if required. Carve pheasant and serve with the sauce and seasonal vegetables.

Photo from rhubarb crumble & custard
(http://www.flickr.com/photos/40001411@N06/4292314135/sizes/m/in/photostream/)

Valentine Warner's Spiced Cider - A big boys and girls winter warmer!

At this time of year there's nothing better than a long walk in  country/woods/park to get fresh air back into your lungs. And when you get back home a bit chilled what better to warm the bones and kick off the next party than this. I've shamelessly copied this from 'What to eat now' and hope if you stumble across this little blog Val you smile rather than get slightly peeved....

Serves 6
1 large knob of ginger (yes properly large)
1 large sprig fresh thyme
300ml freshly squeezed apple juice (well relatively fresh, you don't have to do it yourself but not from concentrate)
2 heaped tbsps muscavado sugar
2 cinnamon sticks
1 litre bottle good medium dry cider
6 measures brandy

Peel and finely slice the ginger, add to the bottom of a large pan with the thyme, apple juice, sugar and cinnamon sticks. Pour over the cider and brandy and heat to a very hot temperature but definitely not boiling or simmering. Ladle into glasses and rest your weary feet.

Williams Bros' Midnight Sun Porter

The Williams Brothers ales seem to be popping up everywhere I shop at the moment and it's hard not be drawn to their combination of tradition and inventiveness. Brewed with malted and roasted barley, oats and root ginger it is inviting and intriguing. This is a dark Porter, dark brown in colour with a chocolatey nose. Lots of intense smoky roast barley on the palate and almsot dark chocolate creaminess it has a long finish with a hint of spice. Don't think you're getting a Crabbies style here with the ginger, you're not. What you are getting is a wonderful deep rich winter beer with a tiny subtle bite to it at the end. Yum.
5.6% ABV, brewed in Alloa

Sea bass two ways

One whole sea bass with each fillet done differently; one sweet cured and pan fried, the other oatmeal crusted and pan fried. Shown on seafood platter on 20th December 2010. Serves four as part of a platter or appetiser.

Sweet cured pan fried sea bass
1 sea bass fillet
1 lime
1 tsp  mild chilli powder
1 tbsp light brown sugar
1 tsp sea salt

Mix juice of the lime, chilli, sugar and salt in a dish. Add bass to the dish and cover well in the juice. Leave for a couple of hours. Cut the fillet into four equal bits. Pan fry in a little olive oil skin side down to crisp up the skin for a two minutes at most then turn over to fleshy side and give another 30 seconds then serve.

Oatmeal crusted sea bass
1 sea bass fillet
2 handfuls coarse oatmeal
1 tsp sea salt with seaweed and fennel seeds (from Waitrose or mix your own)
Dash olive oil

Mix the oatmeal and salt and toast in a pan until golden brown and remove to a plate. Cut the sea bass into 4 equal parts and dip in the olive oil, roll in the toasted oatmeal and pan fry skin side down for a couple of minutes and turn over for 30 seconds to a minute and serve as above.

These are very quick and simple but give lots of flavours and textures as part of a platter or even as a small starter with creme fraiche mixed with chives and a little lemon juice and pepper.

Seafood platter

All the superb fish was from The Scottish Fishmonger (www.thescottishfishmonger.com) via the fantastic 5pm.com offer from the wonderful people at Two Fat Ladies, keep an eye out in case it comes up again....and if it does tell me!!!

What was on the plate (and in the mug)?
Sweet cured sea bass fillet;
Toasted oatmeal and seaweed salt crusted sea bass;
Kipper pate on bread;
'Loch Fyne Skink';
Pancake with creme fraiche, chives and salmon caviar;
Blanched samphire grass with lemon.

I'll add the recipes separately over the coming days for ease of searching.

Stravaigin 2

Sparkly Stravaigin 2

What to say about this wonderful little bistro restaurant hidden away in in the heart of the west end of Glasgow? Stravaigin 2 (www.stravaigin2.co.uk) is the baby of the Ubiquitous Chip group of restaurants and as soon as you 'stravaig' off of busy bustling Byres Road onto Ruthven Lane you are transported into a charming little fairy story world. The restaurant itself is a one time stable, adorned with twinkly lights around a Juliet style balcony. Everything about it just says 'welcome', especially when you walk through the door. We were immediately offered an aperitif from the excellent range and left to relax with the menu at our table beside the bar. Being the week before Christmas the restaurant was busy and the atmosphere festive but equally it was cosy and would be ideal for a quiet romantic night for two.

Pre-theatre menu

We went for the pre-theatre option, not because there was any theatre involved, just because we were eating early, although the a la carte was also available. The menu was simple, warming yet stylish with three choices of starters, main courses and desserts, all at a stunningly reasonable £12.95 for 2 courses or £14.95 for 3. It embraced the Stravaigin philosophy of 'think global, eat local' with Scottish staples alongside flavours of the world. I decided to go for fish and fish.....oatmeal crusted smoked haddock fischcake with homemade tartare followed by pan seared Coley with sweet chilli and coriander roasters. My wife went more hearty and feelgood for a cold day; haggis followed by chilli. We decided that a plate of chunky chips to share was also an essential and weren't disappointed!

Oatmeal crusted smoked haddock fishcake

The fishcake was wonderful, texture from the crunchy oatmeal with creaminess of the potato and fantastic smoky sweetness of the fish. The sharpness of the tartare was a perfect accompaniment. Coley is a much underrated fish, very meaty and also sustainable so you can enjoy it with a clear consience. The fish was cooked to perfection and well offset by the caramelised roast baby potato skins and the hot sweet chilli sauce. The chilli sauce was also the perfect dipping sauce for the chips which were quit simply fandabidozi!!

Haggis neeps and tatties

The haggis, neeps and tatties were stunning in their simplicity while the chilli had all that chilli flavour that I always wonder how to get into my homemade efforts without the eye watering heat going with it. Simple food cooked really well is a delight.

'Red flight'

So that's the food, what about the drink? The wine list is excellent and just as I was about to order a bottle I caught sight of the 'red flight' list. I thought this was a fab idea and something I hadn't seen done like this before (if you have I'd lovd to hear about it). A 125ml taster glass of two wines and a 70ml glass of Port. All served together on a little sheet telling you about the wine's origin and a couple of lines of tasting notes. Simplicity yet wonderfully fun and effective. Yes I matched the fish with red but they went well, a Chilean Pinot noir with light raspberry fruit with the starter and a Spanish tempranillo with a more rich fruit red fruit palate but not too much oak that may have overpowered the Coley a little. To go with the ruby port it had to be cheddar cheese with oatcakes and chutney, what else? A great way to end the meal....well almost, double espresso and Amaretto coffee before heading back out into the freezing Glasgow night.

The pre theatre menu was ideal for the end of an afternoon of shopping or before a night out. Two very relaxing hours passed very quickly in welcoming surroundings with relaxed service and great food. Another on the must return list as the a la carte menu looks superb.

Kelvinbridge to Hillhead return - The Saturday before Christmas

The west end of Glasgow always has a magical feel to it, I was always told Byres Road was the cultural centre of the Universe, or something like that! So when you're looking for something a wee bit different to buy as a present, to drink and to eat then this is the place to go. A short journey on the clockwork orange from Buchanan Street in the city centre got us to Kelvinbridge on Great Western Road and here the adventure for the senses begins. As soon as you leave the train you get the sense of the different pace of life, this is a place to chill out and take life as it comes.

First stop and a hugely exciting discovery for me was Quel Vin, a fantastic play on words for the resurrected former Oddbins Store (449 Great Western Road). Now owned by the owners of La Parmegiana next door it is still run by the former Oddbins staff who are passionate, knowledgeable and always eager to help. The shop is jampacked full of gems from every corner of the wine and spirit world, some quite mainstream and some quite typically unique. For example Williams brothers 'Nollaig' christmas tree ale, of which only 800 were made and one lucky friend is getting for Christmas, sorry, it's not you. I also picked up a half bottle of lightly fizzy Stella Bella Pink Muscat (£12.49) dessert wine from Margaret River and a bottle of Giol Prosecco (£8.99). Can't wait to return here again and again.

Wine and beer in The Belle

A wander further up towards Byres Road reveals stunning food shops like the west end institution that is Roots & Fruits selling fruit, veg and flowers of every variety and also Fantoosh which is an exquisite fishmonger that also does top quality game. After all this shopping it was time to stop for a refreshment. The Belle (617 Great Western Road) is a fantastic cosy bar, with an open fire, excellent range of beers (both draught and bottled), eclectic music and wonderful aroma of hot toddy filling the air to ward off influenza from the premises. This is the sort of place that you could quite happily sink into one of the equally stylish and comfortable seats and sit for the afternoon. However as Christmas shopping was on the agenda we settld for a beautiful pint of rich, dark, Brooklyn Lager and a glass of rose and went back out into the cold.

After a few more shops selling handcrafted and fair trade everything a coffee was calling. Calling into Oran Mor on the corner of Byres Road and GWR I couldn't help but be disappointed by both the house ales being off and the Deuchars being cloudy. Enough said about that so moving swiftly on.....

Traditional Glasgow styling in The Wee Pub

With dinner booked for 6pm at Stravaigin 2 (that requires a completely separate post), the last hour after rekindling memories of youth in The Sentry Box toy shop was spent in Ashton Lane, where else? The Wee Pub (http://www.ubiquitouschip.co.uk/drink.php) is, according to The Chip website, the smallest in Scotland. Attached to the restaurant this is a wonderful little snug which always looks full (but rarely feels it), with a wonderful array of spirits, knowledgeable staff and such a relaxed atmosphere. The barman took me on a tour of the Caribbean with pre and post-dinner rums. Havana Club 5 year old with a little fresh lime juice and a 'wee bit' of ice was a perfect aperitif as my wife enjoyed a Tanqueray and tonic and we sat on the odd sized stools. After dinner a couple of hours later we were sat in the corner of the same Wee Pub (how do you get a seat twice in the smallest pub in the country the Saturday before Christmas?!) Angostura 1919 and 1824 were both sampled. Both are stunning rums from Trinidad and the sub zero Glasgow through the window was replaced by warmth, both real and imagined. Finally the cold had to be braved and the underground carried us back to the fast forward world of the city centre, same city, different world. But both wonderful.

Williams' Bros Kelpie Seaweed Ale

Another traditional Scottish ale from the microbrewery who brought us, among others, Fraoch and Grozet. A beautiful rich chocolate brown, alomst Porter in colour, from roasted malted barley and chocolate hops. Bladder rack seaweed from Argyll on the west coast is added to give the distinctive flavour. It has a fresh nose and a clean taste that leads into malt and chocolate flavours and then onto a slightly salty coastal note on the finish. It has a good long finish of the sea, chocolate and malt. Very pleasant and always good to see traditional flavours revived, but not blown away by it.
4.4%ABV, brewed in Alloa.

Gamba, Glasgow

Gamba on West George Street in the centre of Glasgow (www.gamba.co.uk) is a multi award winning seafood restaurant that has been serving fantastic seafood since 1998. This was my first visit and first impressions were excellent. Typically my fellow diners were late so after having my jacket taken I was offered our table or a seat at the bar. I chose the latter, a stylish intimate snug with an impressive array of aperitifs and digstifs. I chose the lovely Fino Inocente (which I felt was very reasonably priced at £4.75) then sat down to punch away at my mobile phone as seems to be standard practice when left on your own in public these days! Ten minutes later and still alone I was offered a copy of the day's Herald newspaper. It's this sort of excellent, friendly, attentive but unfussy service that characterised the whole evening.

On reaching our table there were no daily specials offered, not sure if there were any but to be honest it's the party season and the menu is sufficiently wide ranging to not require it. On the table was a note telling us of the restaurants sourcing policy which I read as I tasted the excellent fresh bread. All the seafood on offer is single sourced from The Fish People and their policy is on sustainable. These days that may cost a little more but it's a price worth paying.

So, to the food. Dining from the a la carte menu the array of starters included Fish soup, crabmeat, stem ginger, coriander & prawns dumplings; Six Donegal oysters on the half shell, and Marrbury smoked salmon with caper crème fraiche. I opted for the Tartare of line caught sea bass, goat’s cheese, spring onion, sesame & chives at £8.50. This turned out to be a beautiful little delight of intense flavour. Topped with caviar the sea bass was beautifully textured and the little nibbles of goats cheese provided lovely little interludes to the sesame infused bass. It was slightly disappointing that the sesame was a little too much for the fish and the flavour, although far from being washed away, was slightly gathered up by the nutty oriental oil. However. the dish as a whole was excellent with an array of flavours and textures. To accompany this I ordered a glass of the house rose, a beautiful Spanish offering which was packed full of fruit flavour but the standard Spanish rose acidity which perfectly matches seafood with a bit of oil in it.

The range of main courses was equally impressive, such as Lemon sole simply grilled or pan fried in browned parsley & lemon butter and Isle of Gigha organic halibut, scallop cream, smoked haddock, peas, sunblushed tomato. There was also sirloin or pheasant for those who didn't fancy seafood and the vegetarian option of Pesto, red pepper and artichoke tart, rocket & parmesan salad sounds delicious.

I decided to push the boat out (so to speak) and went for Monkfish and scallops with ginger & spring onion steamed in paper at £24.50 with a side of chunky chips. I wasn't disappointed. The dish arrived in a round paper bag which the waiter asked if I knew how to open. Far from sniggering when I said I wasn't sure (rip, tear, cut with a knife???) he proceeded to separate the two halves to reveal beautiful medallions of monkfish tail alongside the scallops, three of each with a little steam rising off for dramatic effect and the truly wonderful aroma of very fresh ginger with soy sauce. The fish itself was stunning, quite simply. Monkfish rich and meaty and cooked to perfection, the scallops soft and delicate and sweet. The sauce was so rich but at the same time mellow, a huge hit of ginger with salty intense soy but none of it masking the flavours of the seafood. This was a joy from start to finish. Coupled with the wonderful chunky chips which quite happily take you back to west of Scotland childhood reminiscences (they are THAT good) the plate just sang.

There was no room for dessert after those two plates, I decided a decaff double espresso  was sufficient despite several favourites on the dessert menu. A cheeseboard of Brie de meux, Roquefort, beaufort, mull cheddar and quince would normally have been temptation enough and Ice whisky parfait, earl grey syrup, and prunes sounds delightful but I decided not to be odd one out. Next time I may be tempted to have both!!

The meal worked out about £50 a head for two courses with aperitif, wine and coffee. Not cheap but not hugely extravagant for an a la carte offering. There is a pre-theatre/lunch menu and also a market menu (£50 for two people for 3 courses with a bottle of wine), both of which look like stunning value to me. Would I go back? Most definitely, Gamba is on the list of return visits, wonderful atmosphere, great service and most of all, flavour.

ps apologies for the lack of pictures, my phone leaves a bit to be desired at times, there are plenty available on the restaurant website. 

Afternoon coffee Italian style in the Glasgow south side

Afternoon coffee. That wonderful treat on a day off after lunch when the world seems empty and the local coffee shop feels like a sanctuary of tranquility. La Brava (www.la-brava.co.uk) on Clarkston Road is a perfect example of this, except it's the exact opposite at the same time. The wonderful staff always seem to be bustling with friendly chatter to regulars and new faces alike, the open kitchen is still busy despite there being very few diners. Yet it is a sanctuary nonetheless, a place to think, to watch and most of all to enjoy stunning coffee. Or breakfast, lunch and dinner for that matter as this is a morning until night gem but those meals are for a different day, today was about afternoon coffee on my half day.

The coffee on offer is an Italian classic, Classico Caffe Circi, 'the coffee of Rome'. It is everything you would expect from an Italian coffee, big and rich with loads of roasty bitterness but that wonderful acidity cutting through and the silky smooth mouthfeel. This is serious coffee. To go with it there's a selection of pastries, some baked in house, others sourced directly from Italy and the staff will happily take you on a tour of them. Sitting alongside standard offerings like homemade scones and croissants are Cannolli Siciliani and Torta della nonna. I opted for the latter, a beautiful rich lemon tart topped with pine nuts and icing sugar. Thick unctuous and the sort of thing you would normally wish you had asked for cream with. Then you wash it down with your Americano and you remember why you didn't. Quite simply this is a joyful way to pass an hour with a copy of The Herald sat on the table or simply to look out of the window and watch the world pass you by. Simple treats are so often the best.

Cosmo pizza with Macsweens haggis

Does food get any more comforting than pizza or haggis? Maybe if you put them together in a wonderful warming Scottish Italian fusion. As soon as you open the oven you get that beautiful smell of haggis, and it HAS to be Macsweens. The dough is lovely and light if a little thick for someone who would normally go super thin but crisps up brilliantly and definitely no stodge! The combination of tomatoes, mozzarella and the wonderful spice of the 'chieftain o' the puddin race' is great. Hearty, warming and very moreish. This would be great with a meaty red, a pint or even after a few pints, or sliced finely for Hogmanay nibbles with a smoky glass of malt....mmmm there's an idea.

Rose veal with mushrooms and marsala

Now I can hardly claim this recipe as my own, creamy mushroom and marsala sauce is hardly a eureka moment, it's pretty widespread. The earthiness of the mushrooms and the rich sweetness of the Sicilian wine is a perfect marriage. But it goes beautifully with veal and not enough people are eating veal so here it is to comfortably serve four people.

500g rose veal escalope cut into medallions about 1cm thick
1 large echallion shallot very finely chopped
150g chestnut mushrooms
50ml marsala dolce
1 smal sprig rosemary with leaves finely chopped
1tbsp creme fraiche
Knob butter
Olive oil
Sea salt and pepper

Season the veal well with salt and pepper. In a large heavy bottomed frying pan sweat the shallots and rosemary in the butter and a little oil. When the shallots are softened add th mushrooms and soften for a minute or so. Move the veg to the side of th pan and add the veal, cooking for around 2 minutes on each side. Pour in the marsala and cook for about a minute then remove the veal to rest whilst you reduce the sauce down further. When it is not much more than a sticky glaze add in the cream on a low heat, check for seasoning and warm through. Serve over the veal with seasonal vegetables.

The excitement of food - Rose veal discovered

What do you find gets you excited about food? Go on, it's not a rhetorical question. Is it a new recipe, a new restaurant, the return of a favourite season? One of my favourite things is when you discover a new ingredient, or even better, rediscover an old ingredient. It is only in the last couple of months that I have discovered rose veal and I simply love it's flavour and its ease of cooking.

So, how do you feel about veal? A meat that all but vanished from the British menu as it got a reputation as being cruel and unethical as it undoubtedly was in my opinion, but it's not up to me what each person finds ethical. Most male dairy calves are killed shortly after birth as they are considered unsuitable for beef production, they are an unfortunate unwanted byproduct of the milk industry. However there is a slowly growing market for UK rose veal, a beautiful lightly pink coloured meat with a delicate sweet flavour and wonderful texture.

I have sourced it from various places. A beautiful cut from Nethergate Farm (www.nethergatelarder.co.uk) who have it raised from a dairy herd on the gorgeous Isle of Bute and which I got at the New Lanark Christmas food fair. I've also bought it from Waitrose as it seems to be slowly making its way into the supermarkets. You wouldn't believe how often the English veal is 'oops'd' in my local Waitrose as nobody seems to want it. We need to spread the word on this gorgeous meat and save more calves from being dispatched within hours of birth. I've attached a recipe, maybe you too can fall in love with rose veal.

Linguine with mushroom and dolcelatte

Another typically Scottish dish!! Nothing beats pasta for quick tasty wholesome bistro style food, a dish you can make in the time the pasta takes to boil.....unlss you're a show off and make your own! I'm not generally, I use De Cecco, it's better than mine will ever be!!

This will do two people as a main or 4 as a wee pasta course

200g linguine
150g large flat mushrooms or chestnut mushrooms, a tasty variety
2 shallots very finely chopped
4 garlic cloves crushed and chopped
Sprig of rosemary finely chopped
50ml dry white wine
100g dolcelatte cubed
2 dessertspoons thick half fat cream
Knob butter and drizzle of oil

Put a big pot of water on, bring to the boil, add a good pinch of sea salt (Marcella says do it at this point and I'm not arguing!), add the pasta and set the timer.....
On a lowish heat in a saute pan heat the butter and oil, add the shallot, garlic and rosemary and soften for a couple of minutes. Add mushrooms and soften a little. Turn up the heat, add the wine and evaporate. Reduce the heat again and add the dolcelatte, melting gently, when completely melted stir through the cream and warm, taste and correct seasoning (will depend on how salty the cheese is generally) with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Hopefully by this time the pasta will be al dente, drain and toss with sauce in the saute pan and serve immediately.

Glasgow cold, frosty December morning

Glasgow on a cold December morning, full of people, the smells, sounds, accents, excitement. What a city!!

First stop, Christmas Market in St.Enoch Square, some gems in this 'international' market. Went to the beautiful French cheese stall and came away with a lovely selection of goats cheeses (can't resist goats' cheese!) - a hard crumbly one which has enough mould to normally be consigned to the bin or penicillin factory in this country, a 'camembert' style from the Loire which smells pretty ripe and one called Campus which looks interesting in a 'I wonder what this is' type of way. Also bought what I thought was (as I asked for it and saw it being cut and weighed?) Comte but on getting home discovered is actually Ton de Borny. Not sure where my Comte is and hope whoever is on the other end of this error is enjoying it as much as I am theirs!

After a wander round the various stalls selling hog roast, impala burgers and German beer (Arran cheese the only Scottish produce I could find?) was obviously time for coffee.

My favourite coffee shop (so far) in Glasgow city centre is Tinderbox Espresso Bar in Princes Square, part American soda bar part stylish city cafe bar but it works. Serves great well roasted chocolatey rich arabica coffee and a large Americano was a must. Although having said that it is was co-founded by David Williamson whose memory the David Williamson Rwanda Foundation (www.rwandafoundation.org) was set up and the filter coffee on offer is always Rwandan and great if you want something a little lighter and which possibly feels more socially responsible. With such a large array of cakes (and sandwiches and salads) to choose from it would be easy to be indecisive, but being Christmas I had to opt for a beautiful pear almond and mulled wine tart. A wonderfully rich half Bakewell half sweet spiced pear gooeyness with a light pastry it was the perfect accompaniment to my coffee and half an hour watching the city go bye from the Princes Square rooftop while flicking through the Christmas edition of 'Delicious'.

Haddock two ways with samphire, buttered leeks and citrus white wine sauce

The two ways are poached in white wine and citrus and oven roasted in oatmeal
(This dish did me for dinner but in reality should have done two people but hey, I'm a large chap!!)


1 Haddock fillet skinned (decent size) cut in half breadthwise
White wine to cover haddock in small pan
2 slices lemon
2 slices lime
Couple of handfuls of pinhead oatmeal lightly toasted
Sea salt (I like the stuff with seaweed and fennel seeds from Waitrose)
Half tsp fennel seeds if you don't have Waitrose handy for above
Half a leek
Couple of handfuls of samphire
Knob butter
Thick white sauce base (knob butter, flour and milk cooked down)
Fresh ground pepper
Beaten egg

Put the toasted oatmeal on a plate and mix in couple of pinches of sea salt. Dip one half of the haddock in the egg and then cover well with the oatmeal. Put onto an oiled tray and cook for 15-20 minutes (depending on thickness) in the oven at 180C until flaking.
Shortly after place the other haddock in a pan with a good couple of pinches of the fennely seaweedy salt and the fruit, cover with the wine and bring to a simmer for about 8 minutes (again depending on thickness), turn over a couple of minutes from the end and then remove from pan and keep warm (only for a minut or so).
Ten minutes into roasting the haddock start to cook the thinly cut leek in a knob of butter over a gentle heat, you want to soften and turn golden but definitely not brown, burnt leek is not a pleasant experience. Season with black pepper.
Use liquor tablespoonwise from haddock to thin the white sauce base over a low heat (is this a real technique? tasted pretty good!) to give you a sauce the consistency of double cream.
Blanch the samphire in boiling water for a minute and drain.

Plate up bed of samphire with haddock arranged on top, leeks around the side and then drizzle with sauce. Serve with the Small and Small Sauvignon Blance below if you can get it....

Small and Small Sylvia Reserve Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2011

Wow!! Can't remember last time I had a white this amazing! Wonderful gooseberry and cut grass nose which you could enjoy without drinking. Fantastic gooseberry, apple and ripe melon fruit with a great, very long finish of acidity, fruit and freshness.

From Naked Wines

F.Stephen Millier Angel's Reserve Shiraz 2010

Wonderful deep ruby red colour with amazing peppery leather bramble fruit nose. Lovely upfront tannin and spice and then easing into bramble and cassis fruit with a long spicy warming alcohol finish.

Californian from Naked Wines

Pan seared pigeon breast with roast acorn squash and cider jus

For 2 as a main or 4 as a starter

2 pigeons, breasts removed and jointed
2 echallion shallots
2 large cloves garlic
6 sage leaves
200 ml good cider
1 apple sliced
1 acorn squash cut into 1/2" wedges
Couple of knobs of butter
Sea salt and pepper to season
Olive oil

Roast the jointed pigeon carcasses for ten minutes. Meanwhile soften the shallots and garlic in some butter and olive oil then add the sage and cook for another minute. Add the roast pigeon bones and cider and cover and simmer for about 20 minutes, strain through a sieve and set aside. Season and toss the squash in olive oil and roast at 180C for about 15 minutes until tender and skin softened.
Season and oil the pigeon breasts on both sides and add to a pan on medium heat for about 2-3 minutes each side. Meanwhile thicken the jus and season to taste.
Rest cooked pigeon for a minute and then serve immediately with squash and jus.

Cured pan fried trout with creme fraiche

Cured trout
2 trout fillets skinned
2tsp dark brown sugar
1tsp chopped dill
2 tsp coarse sea salt
1/2 lemon - juice & zest

Creme fraiche
2tbsp creme fraiche
1/4 lemon - juiced
2 tsp chives

To cure trout mix all ingredients in a dish which will accommodate fish and add trout ensuring it is well covered. Cover and refrigerate for a few hours, at least 2 but no more than 4, you don't want to pickle it. Pan fry over a medium heat in olive oil for 2-3 minutes each side.
Meanwhile add lemon juice and chopped chives to the creme fraiche and mix well.
Serve hout trout immediately, topped with a dollop of creme fraiche and some soda bread.

Talisker Distillery

Talisker Distillery, Carbost, Isle of Skye. Probably the finest whisky in the world and even better with fresh oysters from Loch Harport beneath it.
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